Wearing an unfitted shirt is not (yet) a crime, but if it was one, remember that an ill-fitted collar is like your fingerprint on a robbed safe. Both this too tight one, brutally cutting into your neck, and that - as if after a few glasses of scotch - too relaxed one, are, categorically and at the first glance, going to disclose you, or rather your ignorance in the subject of shirts. Fortunately, however, you know us and we know the most important and most effective method of checking whether the collar is well fitted. What are we talking about? The old, bartender technique of two fingers. If you can put them between your neck and the shirt collar and you do not need to push them by force, nor operate them too freely, congratulations! You have just found a shirt with a well fitted collar.
Ideal shirt length
Now a question of the series: would you prefer to get stuck in an elevator for 72 hours or quaff in one gulp a glass of properly chilled Cabernet Sauvignon? And translating it into the language of shirts: which is better - a too long or too short one? The correct answer is - neither this nor the other! A too short shirt obviously subtracts visual class while uncontrollably revealing your stomach and back (and we do not want this, right?) and it is simply too uncomfortable, oppressing and hampering your movements. There is no better thing for a too long shirt, which interferes with the proportions of the body, shortening it mercilessly. Harnessing it by putting it into the trousers is also not the best idea, because the extra centimeters of fabric will certainly not be forgotten and will look unsightly. So, how to break this deadlock? Just raise your hands up and check if the shirt does not move too high, if it does not reveal the back and abdomen, we can check if it reaches more or less than 5 cm above the iliac spines. Success? Voilà - a perfectly fitted shirt!
Ideal length of shirt sleeves
The sight of a man in a shirt with too short or too long sleeves often raises suspicion that in fact it is owned by his teenage brother or friend who only by chance did not make a career in the NBA. Unfortunately, in most such cases, the reality is much worse than the suspicions - most shirts with ill-fitted sleeves are worn by their rightful owners, and you can only blame it to the mass production of clothing. The producers of mass shirts do not believe that no two people are exactly alike (or are they?), and even though everyone is different, they can be averaged to a few of their schemes anyway. So, you cannot expect that a shirt, which is not bespoke, is going to fit you well - it is rather you, who are going to compromise and fit in with any of the available sizes, imposed by the manufacturer. And how to verify that the sleeves are neither too long nor too short? It's simple - put hands up and look at your wrists, if they are exposed, and the cuffs are right under them, you can relax - you are wearing a perfectly fitted shirt.
Ideal shoulders fitting
The appropriate length of shirt and sleeves? Here it is! Collar? With two fingers gap. Shirt spreading at buttons? Never. But there is something else we need to create the perfect shirt, something which we rarely pay attention to, while choosing any of the commercially available shirt models. It is namely the shirt’s fitting in the shoulders - if it is too loose at this point, it deforms the silhouette, making the shoulders and chest look like an unsightly camping air mattress, which has partially deflated. In turn, in a shirt too tight in the shoulders - even if you were as witty as all Monty Pythons put together - you will be perceived as a nightmare stiff. Are any of the tragedies to be avoided? While testing a shirt it is helpful to use a simple trick and always check whether the sleeves are exactly on the shoulder joint line.
Shirt spreading at buttons
A shirt spreading at the buttons is the same as wellingtons in the theater - if it is not an element of stage characterization, it is simply embarrassing. Smuggling the view of your body (regardless of its form or dimensions) through the windows of a shirt spreading on your stomach or chest is simply in bad taste and should be avoided. Unfortunately, the matter is not as obvious as it might seem - it is not enough to buy the first shirt in which you look and feel well, standing for 30 seconds in front of the fitting room mirror. The well-tailored shirts pass the real test only when you sit down in it, freely and without fear. So, gentlemen - sit down, please!
A shirt ill-fitted in the armpits
Your perfectly fitting shirt should not only make you look but also feel like a platinum credit card. So, you cannot feel all day long, that your skin is tightly and closely wrapped by the fabric, because it is not supporting the air circulation, and as a result - your well-being. Especially during stressful negotiations or an outdoor lunch in June.
Shirt ideally fitted at the back
Every man knows that it is just good to have back-up in some situations. A back-up from friend is a real support in trouble, but a shirt up your back is equally important. The fabric should also fit you well on the back. How can I check if this is the case? All you need is to cross both arms on the chest (just like you might have ended if you did not have the above-mentioned back-up) and grab your shoulders with the fingers. Then look over the shoulder to check in the mirror, if the shirt is not too tight nor too loose. If you cannot notice any wrinkles on the fabric - it's ok! PS This is an exceptional case - we know that you don't look back.
Let's summarize. Next time, when you draw the curtain in the fitting room, remember to follow these few important steps that will allow you to assess whether the shirt is good for you:
1. Slide the fingers behind the collar of the shirt buttoned up. You should easily be able to fit one, maximum two fingers.
2. Put your hands up and see if you cannot see your navel.
3. Stand sideways in front of the mirror, straighten your arms and see if the cuffs come all the way down to the large wrist bones.
4. Button down, chest out. Sit on a chair in the fitting room. Check whether in this position the shirt is not spreading at the buttons.
5. See if the sleeves begin exactly at the height of your shoulder joint.
6. Spread your arms on the width of the fitting room. Make sure the fabric under the arms is not too loose, or if it does not directly touch the skin.
7. Turn your back to the mirror, cross your arms and grab your shoulders with the fingers. Look back over your shoulder and check how the material fits on your back, if it is not too tight or too loose.
We hope that thanks to our precise recipe you will never feel helpless anymore, searching for the perfect shirt. Happy hunting!